Product development is conceiving clothes and pieces from a collection before producing them. What are the product development steps? What does it consist of exactly? Let’s go over one of the most important parts of the collection creation. For MonDéfilé, this activity is made in our head office in Paris.
A designer (or a brand) usually hand draws his collections. The first step is to create the industrial mock-up of those drawings in a digital version. Thanks to that mock-up, we will be able to manufacture the first sample of the design, and produce it. The pattern of each piece has to be made from every angle: front, back, left side, right side, in order to know where to place every seam, every detail… At MonDéfilé, the pattern making and development are made in DAO on Lectra.
Industrialisation and pattern grading
The next step is pattern grading to create variations of each style pattern in every size. From the digital version of the pattern, we apply grading gaps (that can change from one piece to another) in order to create new patterns for each of the sizes ordered by the client. For example, if the initial pattern was made for a dress in a size 8, we will grade the pattern in order to have one pattern for size 6, one pattern for size 10, ..).
We then need to create a technical document for each style included in the collection. Those technical files are made for the garment factory or the manufacturers so they have 100% of the information they need in hand to assemble and finish the pieces. Those technical files contain the information regarding fabrics and supplies used on the model, cut plane, finish details, measures scale and a quality control file so they can make sure of the conformity of the model before it leaves the workshop/factory.
Once this has been made, we create a prototype. It is the copy n°0, made before the serial production. If the client validates it, production can start.
Many brands do not have any model-making license. For those brands, it can be interesting to print patterns on paper or cardboard in order to keep a physical trace of each model’s pattern.