British Fashion Focus: David Koma

Central Saint Martins graduate, Harrods Design Award Winner, and Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner David Koma has gone from strength to strength since he débuted his first collection at London Fashion Week for Autumn / Winter 2009-10. Still relatively elusive in the British fashion scene, his collections are exhibited seasonally on the London catwalks and are continuing to draw more and more of a distinguished crowd.

His story began after débuting his first collection – Autumn / Winter 2009-10 – at London Fashion Week. Expecting relatively little hype for a first-time post-grad collection, Koma was overwhelmed when, in the same week, Cheryl Cole chose one of his dresses for her appearance on The X Factor UK and Beyoncé later chose a custom-made dress he had submitted to her team for her appearance at the MTV Europe Music Awards.

In 2013, the British Fashion Council named David Koma as one of three recipients of their Fashion Forward Sponsorship Scheme, which provides cash funding and business support to upcoming designers spanning their two forthcoming collections. David Koma was awarded a cash fund alongside fellow contemporary designers Holly Fulton and Michael van der Ham.

At the very end of last year David Koma made the headlines once again. After Nicola Formichetti announced his departure from Mugler, it was no sooner announced that Koma would replace him as creative director. This month sees his début collection for the French fashion house, given his mission to modernise and rebrand Mugler’s women’s ready-to-wear collections.

The Mugler Resort 2015 collection, the first RTW collection by David Koma, channels the distinguished sophistication of the modern Parisian woman, focusing on sharp tailoring, the boundary between femininity and androgyny, and hardware detail. Koma, for a British designer, has already successfully reinvigorated the character of the French fashion house, but also re-focused its scope from drama to product.

Koma has clung to the traditional Mugler silhouette, with its strong 80s-inspired shoulders and clean-cut lines, but modernised it for the contemporary woman. He explains that his mission is to ‘create a new vision that will represent Mugler’, and adds emphasis to relevance. The urban colour palettes, mid-century art prints, and traditional silhouettes fuse the perfect blend of old and new to create a new ‘Mugler’.

When Koma was appointed to the position of Creative Director, he said ‘I am deeply honoured to take up the role of artistic director at Mugler – a house for which I have the utmost admiration and respect. For me, Mugler is the most extraordinary fashion house with an undeniably audacious heritage.’

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